Return to Xishuangbanna

On Christmas morning in Xishuangbanna, I woke up to the crowing of roosters outside my friend's apartment. I'd flown over mountains beyond mountains, villages huddled on patches of level land, terraces marching up each overshadowing ridge, Kunming's rust red plateau giving way to lush green forests, and rivers carving their way south to Burma. It was so good to be back.

In Jinghong city, pockets of village life still thrive

In 2010 when I left Jinghong, the seat of Xishuangbanna Dai Ethnic Autonomous Prefecture, the city was embarking on massive building projects - bars, resort hotels, new housing developments. It was so interesting, and at times astounding, to see the development after 2.5 years. There was a new airport right next to the old one, but thankfully it was still surrounded by pineapple and banana fields. And there were more familiar people and sights that brought happiness:

 My friend and former colleague Heidi, and my favorite pickled tea salad at the local Burmese restaurant

A trip to a friend's village for a Dai lunch

A sampling of dishes: cucumber with tomato salsa, egg and herb pancake, steamed ferns with peanut sauce, pork rinds, pineapple rice, grilled fish, spicy noodles, chicken wings and drumsticks, banana leaf-wrapped packages of sticky rice

Dutch friends supporting public health outreach work

Shaokao (烧烤) along the river at night

Yet the same riverside shaokao streets are now lined with large hotels and bars, bars, bars. The Mekong River view from the new bridge:

Similarly, on Christmas Eve I met up with a former Dai coworker and rode with her on her motorcycle out to the "village" of Mannongfeng, which is now developed beyond recognition and pretty much part of the city. The main sight in Mannongfeng is the grandest temple in the region:

We passed by the tour buses parked outside and drove up the hill to a new museum about Xishuangbanna's cultural history. My Dai friend now works here as a civil servant in the local government office for culture and sport. From the top of the hill, we could see all the new apartment towers lining the Mekong:

But they are all empty. This is a property bubble fueled by rich outside investors. No one is re-locating here from large east coast cities, and no Dai person with their own land and wealth-producing crops would sell out and move in unless forced. And in fact, another former Dai colleague and civil servant in the local education bureau said that there had been two "mass incidents" in the last few years when property developers would not offer enough compensation to displaced villagers.

It was really good to come back to a city where I'd spent a lot of time and had many truly happy times. On the other hand, I'd forgotten the things that challenged me in cities where foreigners are often considered a spectacle. Several times, groups of lower-class young men would shout "Hallo!" or "I love you!" and walk away laughing, and I was sorely tempted to some highly undiplomatic responses. How easy it is to be kind and gracious when there are no provocations!

(Whoever despises his neighbor is a sinner, but blessed is he who is generous to the poor)

On my last night in Jinghong, I joined other expat friends at the local Three-Self Church (this is the government-sponsored group that is legally approved to worship openly). A small building full of worshippers, all of whom would be considered lower-class and ignorant by most people, listened as the pastor spoke about the Christmas story. Why was Jesus born amongst animals in a stable, when he could have been born in a royal palace more fitting? Because he loves you, and he is with you, said the pastor. And the congregation nodded along.

 (Brothers and sisters, think of what you were when you were called. Not many of you were wise by human standards; not many of you were influential; not many of you were of noble birth)

The Christmas service ended with a thrilling, foot-stomping song and dance by young Akha worshippers. There was such joy and pride in these people who use their own language and culture to join in a global celebration:

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!